Onsight vs Flash vs Redpoint

Onsight

Onsighting represents one of the purest forms of climbing achievement, defined by a climber successfully completing a route on their very first attempt without any prior knowledge or beta (information) about the climb. This style of ascent is highly revered in the climbing community, as it demonstrates a climber's innate ability to read and interpret a route, make quick decisions, and execute moves efficiently without any pre-planned strategy.

Characteristics of Onsighting

1. First Attempt Success: The climber must reach the top of the route in their initial attempt without falling or resting on the rope.
2. No Prior Knowledge: The climber has no previous information about the route. This includes no prior observation of others climbing the route, no discussions about specific moves or sequences, and no prior practice on any part of the route.
3. Adaptability and Problem-Solving: Onsighting demands a high level of adaptability and problem-solving skills, as climbers must make real-time decisions about the best path and techniques to use.
4. Mental and Physical Challenge: Successfully onsighting a route requires not just physical prowess but also a strong mental game, as climbers face the unknown aspects of the route.

History and Evolution of Onsighting

The history of onsighting is as old as the sport of climbing itself. Initially, when routes were not as well-documented, most climbs were essentially onsights. However, as the sport grew and information about routes became more accessible through guidebooks, videos, and discussions, the pure form of onsighting became more distinct and challenging to achieve.

Historically, onsighting has been a benchmark for assessing a climber's all-around ability. Unlike redpointing, which allows for repeated attempts and detailed preparation, onsighting tests a climber's immediate interaction with the rock, their intuitive understanding of climbing techniques, and their ability to maintain composure under uncertainty.

As climbing technology and training methods have advanced, the difficulty level of routes being onsighted has also increased. Climbers today are pushing the boundaries of what's possible in onsighting, tackling more complex and challenging routes than ever before. This progression highlights the evolving skill and innovation within the climbing community.

In summary, onsighting in climbing is not just about physical strength or technique; it's a blend of mental agility, quick decision-making, and the ability to gracefully handle the unknown. It remains one of the most admired and challenging feats in the climbing world.

Flash

The concept of a "flash" in climbing is distinct yet closely related to onsighting. Flashing a route involves successfully climbing it on the first attempt, but with a significant difference from onsighting: the climber has some form of prior knowledge or beta about the route. This prior information can come from various sources, including observing other climbers on the route, discussing it with peers, or studying videos or guidebooks. The flash is a testament to the climber's ability to effectively utilize this information in real-time during their ascent.

Key Characteristics of Flashing

1. First Attempt Success: Similar to onsighting, flashing a route requires the climber to complete it on their first try without falling or resting on the rope.
2. Prior Knowledge: Unlike onsighting, flashing involves having prior information about the route. This could be specific beta about moves, sequences, or the type of holds and their placements.
3. Application of Knowledge: The ability to apply pre-acquired knowledge effectively during the climb is crucial in flashing. It tests a climber’s skill in translating information into successful execution.
4. Combination of Physical and Intellectual Effort: Flashing a route is as much about intellectual preparation as it is about physical execution. Climbers must quickly recall and apply the beta they have learned.

History and Significance of Flashing

Flashing has become increasingly recognized in the climbing community, particularly as the availability of information about routes has expanded. With the rise of digital media and climbing platforms, climbers can access detailed beta about routes from across the globe, making the art of flashing more prevalent and strategic.

Historically, flashing was less common when information about routes was scarce and climbers relied more on onsighting or redpointing. However, as the sport evolved and the climbing community grew more connected, the ability to flash difficult routes started gaining prominence. Flashing requires not only physical preparedness but also a high degree of mental readiness, as climbers must process and apply the beta under the pressure of their first and only attempt.

Today, flashing represents a blend of physical skill, mental preparation, and strategic application. It occupies a unique space in climbing achievements, differentiating itself from the pure on-the-fly problem-solving of onsighting and the repeated trial-and-error approach of redpointing. Flashing continues to be a respected and sought-after accomplishment, demonstrating a climber's comprehensive capabilities in both acquiring and applying knowledge effectively.

Redpoint

Redpoint climbing is the act of successfully free climbing a route without falling or using any artificial aids, after having previously attempted and failed it. It doesn't matter if you send it on your 2nd attempt or 100th attempt.

Characteristics of Redpointing:

1. Free-Climbing from Ground to Top: The climber ascends the route from the bottom to the top without the use of any artificial aids. This emphasizes the use of natural rock features and the climber's skill.
2. Lead Climbing: Redpointing is done while lead climbing, where the climber places protection (like quickdraws on bolts) as they ascend, as opposed to top-roping where the rope comes from above.
3. Practice and Familiarity with the Route: Unlike onsighting or flashing, redpointing typically involves prior attempts at the route. This can include practicing specific moves (headpointing) or climbing the route on top rope before attempting to lead it.
4. Overcoming Previous Failures: A successful redpoint often follows previous attempts where the climber may have fallen or rested on the rope. It's about learning from these attempts and applying this knowledge to complete the climb cleanly.
5. Absence of Onsight or Flash: If a climber onsights or flashes a route (climbing it successfully on the first attempt, with no falls, with or without prior knowledge, respectively), it’s not considered a redpoint. Redpointing generally comes into play when these initial attempts are not successful.
6. First Free Ascent (FFA) Recognition: When a route is redpointed for the first time, especially if it has never been onsighted or flashed, it is recognized as the first free ascent of that route, marking a significant achievement in the climbing community.

The concept originated in the 1970s with German climber Kurt Albert, who introduced a practice of marking routes with a red dot that he aimed to climb without aid. Upon completing these routes, he would fill in the dot, thus coining the term 'Rotpunkt' or 'redpoint.' This practice signified a shift towards valuing skill and precision in climbing, moving away from reliance on equipment.

Notable Redpoints

Notable redpoints often involve groundbreaking achievements in the sport, where climbers conquer routes that were previously deemed too difficult. Climbers invest significant time in planning and repeated attempts, honing their approach with each climb.

Men's Notable Redpoints:

• Silence (Project Hard) – Flatanger, Norway: First ascent by Adam Ondra on September 3, 2017, rated at 9c. Notably harder than his previous climbs, remains unrepeated as of September 2023.
• DNA – Verdon Gorge, France: Completed by Sébastien Bouin on April 29, 2022, with a proposed grade of 9c, remains unrepeated as of September 2023.
• B.I.G. (Project Big) – Flatanger, Norway: First ascent by Jakob Schubert on September 20, 2023, rated 9c after consultation with Adam Ondra, remains unrepeated as of September 2023.

Women's Notable Redpoints:

• La Planta de Shiva – Villanueva del Rosario, Spain: First female ascent of a 9b route by Angela Eiter on October 22, 2017.
• Eagle–4 – Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux, France: Second female ascent of a 9b by Julia Chanourdie on November 7, 2020.
• Madame Ching – Tyrol, Austria: Third female 9b ascent and first female FFA of a 9b by Angela Eiter on December 16, 2020; remains unrepeated.
• Erebor – Eremo di San Paolo, Arco, Italy: Fourth female ascent of a 9b (originally rated 9b+) by Laura Rogora on October 2, 2021.

Redpoint competitions add an exciting dimension to the sport, challenging climbers to complete the most difficult routes within a set time. These competitions highlight the climber's agility, problem-solving skills, and ability to perform under pressure.