What is an Arete in Climbing?
An arete is a sharp, outward-facing edge where two rock faces meet, creating a vertical or near-vertical ridge. It provides unique climbing challenges, often requiring balance, pinching holds, and foot smearing on opposing faces. Aretes range from small bouldering problems to long alpine ridges. Due to their distinct geometry, they often present a combination of face and edge climbing, requiring adaptability in technique.
Meaning and Pronunciation
The word arete (pronounced "uh-RET") comes from the French term for "ridge." In climbing, it refers specifically to an external rock edge, differentiating it from a dihedral, which is an inside corner. The term has been widely adopted in climbing literature and discussions, especially in European and North American climbing communities. Understanding the distinction between an arete and other rock formations is key to identifying suitable climbing routes and preparing for specific techniques.
Techniques for Climbing Aretes
- Pinching and Laybacking: Using opposing hand pressure on both sides of the arete to generate upward movement.
- Smearing and Edging: Placing feet against the rock for stability and incremental progress, especially when footholds are minimal.
- Heel and Toe Hooks: Useful for keeping body tension on steep aretes by securing a foot on a ledge or hooking a heel for balance.
- Body Positioning: Staying close to the rock to maintain balance and prevent "barn-dooring" (swinging off), which is common due to the lack of holds on one side.
- Protection Considerations: Rope placement is critical to avoid sharp-edge rope wear or unsafe fall potential. Climbers should assess the placement of quickdraws or trad gear carefully to reduce risk.
- Core Engagement: Climbing an arete requires significant core strength to maintain stability while transitioning between holds on different planes of the rock.
- Route Reading: Since aretes often have fewer obvious holds, reading the rock and anticipating moves ahead of time is essential for efficient climbing.
History of Arete Climbing
Arete climbing has been a major part of alpinism and rock climbing for over a century, playing a significant role in the development of modern climbing techniques. Some of the earliest notable ascents include:
- Matterhorn, Switzerland (1865): The first ascent via the Hörnli Ridge by Edward Whymper, marking a milestone in alpinism.
- Ellingwood Arete, Colorado (1925): A classic alpine rock route first climbed by Albert Ellingwood, demonstrating the viability of technical rock climbing on mountain ridges.
- Gill Arete, Germany (1982): A bold ascent by Wolfgang Güllich on the thin arete of the Frankenjura, highlighting the evolution of hard sport climbing.
- Careless Torque, UK (1987): A historic gritstone boulder problem first climbed by Ron Fawcett, setting new standards in highball climbing.
- Inaccessible Pinnacle, Scotland (1880s): A landmark climb in British mountaineering, now considered an essential testpiece for climbers in the UK.
Best Locations for Arete Climbing
Some of the world's most famous aretes include:
- Hörnli Ridge, Matterhorn (Switzerland): One of the most iconic alpine routes, offering a classic introduction to high-altitude arete climbing.
- Cosmiques Arete, Aiguille du Midi (France): A classic mixed alpine climb in the Mont Blanc Massif, combining rock and ice climbing along a knife-edge ridge.
- Ellingwood Arete, Crestone Needle (USA): A long, exposed alpine rock climb that attracts climbers seeking adventure in the Sangre de Cristo Range.
- Sun Ribbon Arete, Temple Crag (USA): A multi-pitch Sierra classic with a tyrolean traverse, adding an extra element of excitement.
- Inaccessible Pinnacle, Cuillin Ridge (Scotland): A steep and narrow UK classic, requiring technical climbing to reach its summit.
- The Cuillin Ridge Traverse, Scotland: A continuous ridge scramble featuring multiple arete-style sections, considered one of the best mountaineering challenges in Britain.
- Cneifion Arete, Snowdonia (Wales): A smaller but highly aesthetic arete climb often used as an introduction to alpine-style ridge climbing.
Notable Climbers and Historic Ascents
- Edward Whymper (Matterhorn, 1865): First ascent of a famous alpine ridge, marking a turning point in mountaineering history.
- Wolfgang Güllich (Gill Arete, 1982): Advanced arete climbing with minimal protection, showcasing modern sport climbing's progression.
- Ron Fawcett (Careless Torque, 1987): Established one of the hardest arete boulder problems, pushing the limits of gritstone climbing.
- Alex Honnold: Soloed numerous routes involving delicate arete climbing, such as parts of Half Dome, demonstrating exceptional balance and precision.
- Johnny Dawes: Known for his dynamic climbing style, Dawes has tackled many bold arete routes in the UK, including the challenging "Indian Face."
- Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: One of the first women to climb "Careless Torque," proving the continued progression of elite female climbers in technical arete climbing.
Summary
Aretes are a distinct and technical rock feature that require specialized climbing techniques. From historic alpine ridges to cutting-edge bouldering problems, they continue to challenge and inspire climbers worldwide. Whether in the Alps, Rockies, or local crags, mastering arete climbing opens access to some of the sport’s most aesthetic and rewarding lines. Due to their combination of balance, precision, and exposure, aretes remain an essential test of climbing ability across disciplines, from trad and sport to bouldering and alpine climbing.
