In the realm of elite bouldering, V17 boulder problems (Fontainebleau grade 9A) represent the absolute cutting edge of difficulty.
Since the groundbreaking first ascent of Burden of Dreams in 2016, the number of climbs proposed at this grade has slowly grown. As of May 2025, there are 13 known V17 boulders worldwide — 7 confirmed through repeats and 6 still awaiting consensus. Each of these problems is a monumental test of strength, technique, and commitment.
Below, we break down every V17 in existence, including location, first ascensionist, and notable repeats. At the end, you'll find a full list of climbers who have sent V17 — a who's who of the sport’s most elite.
Burden of Dreams V17 (Finland, 2016)
Location: Lappnor, Finland – a remote forest boulder near Loviisa.
First Ascent: Nalle Hukkataival, 2016.
Burden of Dreams was the world’s first proposed climbing V17 boulder problem, established by Hukkataival after an astonishing four-year effort (reportedly ~4,000 attempts) on what was then known as the “Lappnor Project.” This short granite testpiece is only ~8 moves long, meaning each move is extremely powerful and technical. Hukkataival’s success redefined the upper limit of bouldering grades.
In April 2023, Will Bosi made the second ascent, confirming the 9A grade. The problem has since seen more repeats: Simon Lorenzi climbed it in December 2023, and Elias Iagnemma in March 2024. Burden of Dreams remains a benchmark for the V17 grade, with attempts (and a full 3D replica of the holds) featured in media as climbers worldwide test themselves against this legendary problem.
Return of the Sleepwalker V17 (USA, 2021)
Location: Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rock, Nevada, USA.
First Ascent: Daniel Woods, March 30, 2021.
This problem is a sit-start extension to Sleepwalker (V16) – itself one of Red Rock’s hardest. Adding about 6 moves of V13 straight into Sleepwalker with no rest, Woods spent three months obsessively working this low-start in the Mojave Desert. The result, Return of the Sleepwalker (ROTSW), became the first V17 boulder in America. Woods’ ascent (after 52 sessions, documented by Mellow) was legendary, and he proposed 9A.
The first repeat didn’t come until nearly three years later: in February 2024, Will Bosi made the second ascent after 12 sessions, confirming the difficulty (he described it as “bottom end of the grade” but still 9A). Later in 2024, young American climber Noah Wheeler claimed the third ascent, and in March 2025, Simon Lorenzi notched a fourth ascent (remarkably, during a short trip). With its brutal power endurance and razor-blade crimps, Return of the Sleepwalker exemplifies the modern trend of stacking hard boulders for a bigger challenge.
It’s regarded as a must-try benchmark for anyone chasing the V17 grade, and footage of Woods and Bosi on this problem shows just how sustained and unforgiving the climbing is.
Alphane V17 (Switzerland, 2022)
Location: Chironico, Ticino, Switzerland.
First Ascent: Shawn Raboutou, April 2022.
Alphane is a beautiful overhanging granite boulder in the Swiss Alps, first climbed by Raboutou (though he kept the send secret for months). The line was originally a Dave Graham project, featuring a link of roughly V14 into V15 into an “easy” V10 top-out – a stacked sequence requiring strength and stamina. Shawn spent ~25 sessions to complete Alphane, proposing V17.
Since then, it has become the most repeated V17 bouldering testpiece. In October 2022, Aidan Roberts nabbed the second ascent, followed by Will Bosi (third) not long after. By 2023, repeats were also logged by Simon Lorenzi, Jakob Schubert, and Sean Bailey – making Alphane something of a proving ground for the world’s best. All repeat ascensionists have upheld the 9A grade. With its combination of power moves and toe-hook trickery on flawless granite, Alphane offers a more endurance-based challenge compared to short burst problems like Burden of Dreams. It has been featured in multiple climbing films and videos (including Bosi’s send footage), and is often cited when discussing the possibility of an eventual V18. Alphane’s popularity among top climbers cements its status as a benchmark climb for anyone aiming to join the V17 club.
Megatron V17 (USA, 2022)
Location: Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, USA.
First Ascent: Shawn Raboutou, 2022.
Soon after sending Alphane in spring 2022, Shawn Raboutou turned to this long-standing Colorado project. Megatron links a stout V15 into the stand-start Tron (V14) with no rest in between. Daniel Woods had established Tron in 2017, and many top climbers (Woods, Drew Ruana, etc.) tried the full line for years. Shawn’s ascent came quietly in late 2022, making him the first person to log two V17 FAs. He initially kept it under wraps, only announcing it the following year. With 17 relentless moves of powerful compression, Megatron is considered one of the hardest boulders in the world. It resisted all attempts for over a year afterward – Ruana famously put in 100+ sessions without success.
Finally, on April 22, 2025, Britain’s Hamish McArthur made the coveted second ascent. McArthur’s repeat, in just five sessions, was astonishingly fast, suggesting he was a perfect match for the problem’s style. He confirmed the grade at V17 and remarked on the unique mental and physical challenge of this 10-meter roof climb. As of 2025, Megatron stands as America’s second V17 and a testament to Shawn Raboutou’s vision. A video of Raboutou’s FA (featured by Mellow) and McArthur’s send are available, offering rare insight into this imposing roof problem.
Spots of Time V17 (UK, 2024)
Location: Helvellyn, Lake District, England, UK.
First Ascent: Aidan Roberts, February 2024.
Tucked away on a mountainside in the Lake District, Spots of Time is the first V17 boulder in the U.K. Roberts, known for his methodical approach, pieced together this line over two years on his local stone. The problem climbs a steep shield of rhyolite high on Helvellyn, featuring intricate toe-hooks and powerful shoulder moves. After careful consideration, Aidan proposed the Font 9A grade, drawing on his experience from other top-end climbs (he had already done Alphane and several V16s).
In August 2024, Will Bosi made the second ascent – confirming both the difficulty and the quality of the line. Bosi’s send meant he became the first person to climb four different V17s, underlining Spots of Time’s world-class status. This problem is characterized by its length and sustained nature (at the limit of what can still be considered a boulder problem), and it suits those with a blend of power and finesse on slopers. A UKClimbing video and profile piece documented Roberts’s process on Spots of Time, giving insight into the climb’s beautiful setting and moves. The ascent was a major milestone for British bouldering, and it’s named after a William Wordsworth concept – befitting a line Roberts describes as a momentous, meaningful experience in his climbing career.
Shaolin V17 (USA, 2024)
Location: Red Rock Canyon, Nevada, USA.
First Ascent: Sean Bailey, February 2024.
On a sandstone boulder in Red Rock’s remote Willow Springs area, Shaolin was a long-standing project that attracted top climbers (rumor has it even Daniel Woods and Shawn Raboutou had tried it). Sean Bailey, better known for his World Cup victories and 9b+ sport climbs, shifted focus to bouldering and made an impressive first ascent of this line. Shaolin climbs out a steep face near the classic Trieste (V14). While many of its moves are hard, the final two moves are what truly earn the 9A grade: a dynamic stab to a heinous crimp, followed by controlling a swing that “rips your fingers” if you miss the sweet spot. Bailey’s successful send (documented by Mellow) proposes V17 and adds yet another testpiece to Red Rock’s growing hard boulder list.
Not long after, on March 7, 2024, Noah Wheeler snagged the second ascent of Shaolin, backing the grade. This quick repeat by a lesser-known climber shows that the new generation of American climbers are rising to meet these challenges. Shaolin is regarded as one of the most aesthetic hard lines in the U.S., combining powerful moves on shallow pockets and edges with a beautiful overhanging wall. Videos of Bailey and Wheeler on Shaolin display a mix of precision and ferocity – a style befitting its name. It stands as one of the toughest problems in the country and further evidence of Bailey’s all-around climbing prowess.
No One Mourns the Wicked V17 (USA, 2024)
Location: Thunder Ridge, Colorado, USA.
First Ascent: Nathaniel Coleman, December 2024.
No One Mourns the Wicked is the low-start sit extension to Coleman’s own 2019 problem Defying Gravity (V15) – both names nodding to songs from the musical Wicked. This boulder piles an insanely difficult intro into an already stout line. Coleman described it as one of the hardest starts ever: nine powerful, fingery moves lead into the crux of Defying Gravity. After dedicating many sessions, Coleman completed the first ascent and proposed V17, calling the line “arguably the most aesthetic” hard boulder he’d seen (the overhanging face is adorned with striking features).
In an impressive turn of events, British climber Hamish McArthur made the second ascent on May 4, 2025 – and he did it in just one afternoon. McArthur’s flash-like repeat (the first-ever V17 done in a single day) stunned the community and showed that sometimes the right climber can make quick work of a project. Whether this suggests a soft grade or simply McArthur’s exceptional strength remains to be seen, but for now the consensus still lands at 9A. No One Mourns the Wicked is a proud addition to Colorado’s hard boulders, blending American-style power with careful beta refinement. Coleman’s journey on the problem is captured in a Mellow video, and McArthur’s uncut send footage has already become legendary. Together, their ascents highlight a fitting “passing of the torch” – from an established pro climber to a young phenom – on one of the world’s hardest blocs.
Proposed V17 Boulder Problems
No Kpote Only V17 (France, 2019)
Location: Fontainebleau, France – Rocher de la Salamandre area.
First Ascent: Charles “Barefoot Charles” Albert, 2019.
Climbing without shoes, Albert unlocked this roof traverse and proposed Font 9A (V17), naming it “No Kpote Only” (a play on “No Capote,” meaning “no condom,” humorously referencing climbing it barefoot). It was only the second-ever 9A proposal at the time.
In 2020, Ryohei Kameyama made the first repeat, suggesting a grade of V16/V17, and later Nico Pelorson repeated it and proposed a downgrade to ~V15. The discrepancy raised the question: is it V17 only when climbed barefoot. With optimal beta (and modern tactics like shoes and kneepads), the consensus has settled closer to 8C+ or soft 9A. Regardless of the grade debates, No Kpote Only stands as one of Fontainebleau’s hardest problems. It established Charles Albert’s reputation and foreshadowed his future V17 effort (L’Ombre du Voyageur). An uncut video of Albert’s unique barefoot ascent is available, showcasing the climb’s burly moves on slopey holds.
Soudain Seul V17 (France, 2021)
Location: Fontainebleau, France – sit start to “The Big Island” at Coquibus Rumont.
First Ascent: Simon Lorenzi, early 2021.
Soudain Seul (“Suddenly Alone”) adds a low start into the famous V15 Big Island. Lorenzi spent ~25 sessions and initially proposed the grade at V17 (Font 9A), making it one of the world’s first V17 bouldering problems. The sit start involves tricky kneebars, and Lorenzi even innovated using a small book inside his kneepad for extra friction on a crux move.
The second ascent came quickly: Nicolas Pelorson repeated it and argued for a downgrade to V16 (8C+), believing the problem wasn’t quite at the 9A threshold. Then, in 2022, Camille Coudert made a third ascent (without the book trick) and felt it was a “soft 9A,” effectively reconfirming the original grade.
Even Adam Ondra joined the fray – he climbed Soudain Seul in 2023 in 5 sessions and noted it was the hardest boulder he’d done, “harder than my 8C+ first ascents… whether it’s 8C+/9A or soft 9A, I really don’t know”. With multiple top climbers weighing in, Soudain Seul remains on the borderline of V16/17. It’s an “instant classic” test of power-endurance on Fontainebleau’s slopers, requiring both core tension and finesse. Videos of these ascents (including Ondra’s) highlight the intense toe-hook and sloper sequence that makes this climb so notorious.
Blackflip Sit (Djan-Tugan) V17 (Russia, 2023)
Location: Djan-Tugan valley, Mount Elbrus region, Russia.
First Ascent: Vadim Timonov, May 2023.
Tucked away in the Caucasus mountains lies Blackflip Sit, the first proposed V17 in Russia. Timonov, a Russian powerhouse, spent multiple trips unlocking this granite roof in a remote alpine boulder field. He first climbed the stand start at 8C (V15), then completed the sit start, linking into the stand for a huge increase in difficulty. Timonov proposed a grade of 8C+/9A (V16/17), initially adding a slash because he was cautious about claiming the world’s highest grade.
Later reflection and consensus have leaned towards calling Blackflip Sit a full 9A/V17. This climb demands intense core tension and inventive body positioning on polished granite slopers. It’s far from the spotlight of typical climbing areas, but a video of Timonov’s ascent (released in 2023) revealed a problem as futuristic as any on this list. As of 2025, Blackflip Sit remains unrepeated, awaiting confirmation. It highlights the expansion of top-end bouldering to new regions – demonstrating that cutting-edge V17 boulders aren’t confined to the usual hotspots.
Timonov’s achievement also underscores the potential of Russia’s granite areas, suggesting that even V18 might lurk in those valleys.
L’Ombre du Voyageur V17 (France, 2023)
Location: Le Salève, Haute-Savoie, France (near Geneva).
First Ascent: Charles Albert, October 2023.
Translating to “The Shadow of the Traveler,” L’Ombre du Voyageur is a spectacular ~10-meter horizontal roof crack in a cave on the French Prealps. True to form, “Barefoot Charles” climbed it barefoot, eschewing climbing shoes as he always does. The line involves brutal finger locks, heel-toe cams, and even a tough kneebar midway through. Albert initially mused that it might be in the V18 (9A+) range, but considering that repeat attempts will likely use shoes and kneepads, he settled on proposing V17.
This is Charles’s second Font 9A proposal (after No Kpote Only), solidifying his status in the sport’s lore. L’Ombre du Voyageur has yet to see a repeat, so the grade remains speculative. The climbing world is eager to see if someone can repeat it with shoes – and whether that leads to a downgrade, similar to what happened with No Kpote Only.
Pete Whittaker, a crack climbing specialist, gave it some tries (even attempting it barefoot) in 2024, providing a glimpse of the climb’s gnarly style. With or without shoes, there’s no doubt this roof crack is among the hardest boulders on the planet. A short film by Red Bull highlights Albert’s unique ascent, offering a rare look at the techniques required for this singular boulder problem.
Arrival of the Birds V17 (Switzerland, 2024)
Location: Chironico, Ticino, Switzerland.
First Ascent: Aidan Roberts, 2024 (summer).
Just a few months after completing Spots of Time, Aidan Roberts turned his attention to an old project in Chironico and came away with Arrival of the Birds. This climb, tucked in a quiet sector of Ticino’s boulders, pushed Roberts to his limit – he described it as a line that “challenged him like no other” and therefore warranted a solid 9A grade. Arrival of the Birds links desperate compression moves into tiny crimp sequences with barely any rest.
Roberts was careful in grading, but ultimately felt it clearly resides in V17 territory. As of May 2025, no repeats have been reported, leaving this problem unconfirmed by others. However, given Roberts’s track record and the consensus on his other V17, there’s little doubt this climb is extremely hard. It showcases the Swiss granite at its finest – beautiful rock with subtle features requiring imagination and raw power.
A film by Lacrux and interview with Roberts delve into the process behind this ascent, illustrating how he trained specifically to link the crux sections. With Arrival of the Birds, Ticino gained a second Font 9A testpiece (after Alphane), reinforcing Switzerland’s importance on the cutting edge of bouldering. The name, inspired by a musical piece, hints at the graceful yet fierce nature of the climb.
The Big Slamm V17 (Italy, 2025)
Location: Tintorale, Abruzzo, Italy.
First Ascent: Elias Iagnemma, January 2025.
The Big Slamm is Italy’s first Font 9A boulder, established after a year and a half of effort by local strongman Elias Iagnemma. This steep limestone boulder (the rock is described as similar to Silvio Reffo’s sport routes nearby) features small crimps and slopers on an overhang, demanding both finger strength and creativity. Iagnemma was inspired by Burden of Dreams – which he had repeated in 2024 – noting that The Big Slamm shares a similar style of “tight, powerful moves”. His experience on Burden perhaps prepared him for this project. Finally, in January 2025, he linked all the moves and reached the top, proposing the 9A grade.
This ascent marked a historic moment for Italian bouldering and showcased Iagnemma’s exceptional ability (it’s his second V17 after Burden). No repeats have been logged yet, but a video of Elias on The Big Slamm has been released, giving other climbers a preview of the line. The problem has a bit of everything: core-intensive roof moves, a tricky toe-hook sequence, and a committing finish. With Italy now on the V17 map, The Big Slamm may attract more international attention in coming seasons. It underscores how the frontier of bouldering has expanded – reaching even the limestone crags of Abruzzo – and it ensures that the legacy of cutting-edge problems is shared across Europe.
Mount Doom V17 (Austria, 2025)
Location: Maltatal, Austria.
First Ascent: Nicolai Užnik, March 1, 2025.
Mount Doom is a towering granite bloc in the Maltatal valley that became Austria’s hardest boulder when 24-year-old Nicolai Užnik (a former competition standout) made the first ascent. True to its name, this climb is a beast: it involves a link of multiple double-digit sequences with barely any rests, finishing with a committing mantle high off the deck.
Užnik had scouted the project for some time and, after intensive training, managed to climb it in late winter 2025. He proposed Font 9A, making Mount Doom one of only a handful of proposed V17s worldwide. The ascent drew comparisons to other “mega-lines” like Burden of Dreams, given its reputation and difficulty. Footage shared on Nicolai’s Instagram shows him wrestling with tiny crimpers and big moves between far-apart holds, truly living up to the problem’s name (a nod to Tolkien’s fiery mountain in Lord of the Rings).
As the first of its grade in Austria, Mount Doom highlights the country’s growing presence in high-end bouldering (long known for hard routes, now also home to one of the hardest boulders). No repeats have occurred yet, but the problem has already attracted interest from top climbers planning trips to Maltatal. With this send, Užnik joined the exclusive club of climbers who have opened a V17, and he demonstrated that the next generation of competition climbers can quickly transition to establishing world-class outdoor climbs.
Who Has Climbed V17?
The pool of climbers who have succeeded in climbing V17 (9A) is extremely limited – truly the “elite of the elite” in bouldering. Below is a list of all known climbers as of 2025 who have sent at least one V17 boulder problem (including first ascents or repeats of confirmed and proposed 9A boulders):
Confirmed and Proposed V17 Ascensionists:
- Nalle Hukkataival – (Burden of Dreams FA)
- Daniel Woods – (Return of the Sleepwalker FA)
- Shawn Raboutou – (Alphane FA; Megatron FA)
- Will Bosi – (Burden of Dreams, Return of the Sleepwalker, Alphane, Spots of Time)
- Aidan Roberts – (Alphane, Spots of Time FA, Arrival of the Birds FA)
- Elias Iagnemma – (Burden of Dreams, The Big Slamm FA)
- Noah Wheeler – (Return of the Sleepwalker, Shaolin)
- Jakob Schubert – (Alphane)
- Sean Bailey – (Alphane, Shaolin FA)
- Nathaniel Coleman – (No One Mourns the Wicked FA)
- Simon Lorenzi – (Burden of Dreams, Alphane, Return of the Sleepwalker, Soudain Seul FA)
- Charles Albert – (No Kpote Only FA, L’Ombre du Voyageur FA)
- Camille Coudert – (Soudain Seul repeat)
- Adam Ondra – (Soudain Seul repeat)
- Hamish McArthur – (Megatron repeat, No One Mourns the Wicked repeat)
- Vadim Timonov – (Blackflip Sit FA)
- Nicolai Užnik – (Mount Doom FA)
- Ryohei Kameyama – (No Kpote Only repeat)
- Nico Pelorson – (No Kpote Only and Soudain Seul repeats)
(Note: While climbers like Kameyama and Pelorson proposed lower grades for their ascents, they are included here for having climbed problems originally proposed at V17.)
Each of these climbers has pushed the outer edge of what’s possible on rock. As new boulders are established and others are repeated or regraded, this list will continue to evolve — but for now, these are the individuals who’ve stepped into the realm of 9A bouldering. Many of them (like Raboutou, Roberts, and Bosi) have climbed multiple V17s, and some are already chasing what could become the first V18.