The Eva Lopez Hangboard Protocol: A Complete Breakdown
If you have spent any time researching hangboard training, you have seen the name Eva Lopez. Her MaxHangs protocol is one of the most studied and widely adopted fingerboard programs in climbing, and for good reason: it is built on published research, tested on real climbers, and produces measurable results. This guide covers everything you need to know about the Eva Lopez hangboard method.
Who Is Eva Lopez?
Eva Lopez-Rivera is a Spanish sport climber, coach, and sports scientist. She has climbed up to 8c+, which puts her among the strongest female climbers in the world. She holds a PhD from the Universidad de Cadiz, where her doctoral thesis focused specifically on finger strength and endurance training in climbing.
What makes the Eva Lopez hangboard approach different from most training advice is that it comes from rigorous academic research. Lopez did not just try things and report what felt good. She designed controlled experiments, tested multiple protocols on real climbers, measured outcomes, and published the results in peer-reviewed journals. Her work has been presented at IRCRA (International Rock Climbing Research Association) congresses and cited by coaches and researchers worldwide.
She has published three major papers on finger training, comparing different hangboard training routines and their effects on maximal grip strength and endurance. Her blog (en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com) is one of the most detailed free resources on evidence-based finger training available anywhere.
Beyond research, Lopez works as a climbing coach offering private consultation and workshops across the world. She also designed the Transgression hangboard, a board with adjustable edge depths built for precise training loads.
The MaxHangs Protocol Breakdown
The Eva Lopez hangboard protocol centers on MaxHangs: short, high-intensity dead hangs with full recovery between efforts. The goal is maximum force production on every rep. This is pure strength training for your fingers.
Core Protocol Parameters
| Parameter | MaxHangs Protocol |
|---|---|
| Sets | 3-5 (build from 3 to 5 over a training cycle) |
| Reps per set | 1 (one hang per set) |
| Hang time | 6-10 seconds (10s is the standard target) |
| Rest between sets | 3-5 minutes |
| Intensity | Near maximal (you could hang ~3 seconds longer than prescribed) |
| Grip | Half crimp (Lopez's standard test grip) |
| Frequency | 2-3 sessions per week |
| Cycle length | 4-8 weeks |
The Eva Lopez hangboard routine is deceptively simple. Each set is a single hang. You load up, hang for your target time, come off, rest for 3-5 minutes, and go again. There is no metabolic fatigue, no pump, no endurance component. Every rep is about maximum recruitment.
The Margin Concept
The most important concept in the Eva Lopez hangboard system is the effort margin. Lopez uses a term from Gonzalez-Badillo and Gorostiaga (1993): the number of seconds you could continue hanging beyond your prescribed time.
If you are doing 10-second hangs with a 3-second margin, you pick a load where your absolute maximum hang would be 13 seconds. This keeps you working at high intensity without going to failure on every set, which research shows leads to unnecessary fatigue without additional strength gains.
A hangboard training routine built around this margin concept lets you train hard while staying fresh enough to maintain quality across all your sets. Lopez recommends starting with a wider margin (5 seconds) and narrowing it (to 1-2 seconds) as you progress through a cycle.
Loading Methods: MAW and MED
Lopez uses two distinct loading methods in her Eva Lopez hangboard protocol, and both have been tested in her research.
MAW: Maximum Added Weight
Pick a fixed edge depth (typically 18-20mm, a standard training edge) and add weight using a belt or harness. You progress by adding more weight session to session or week to week.
Example: 4 x 10-second hangs on 18mm edge with +25kg added weight, 3-minute rest between sets. Margin: 3 seconds.
MAW is the most straightforward way to track progress in your hangboard training routine. The numbers go up in clear increments and you can measure strength gains precisely.
MED: Minimum Edge Depth
Use bodyweight only (or minimal added weight) and hang on progressively smaller edges. You progress by reducing the edge depth.
Example: 4 x 10-second hangs on 14mm edge at bodyweight, 3-minute rest between sets. Margin: 3 seconds.
MED is ideal for climbers who want to build edge-specific contact strength and do not have weight equipment. Many hangboards (including those from The Hangboard) feature multiple edge depths that make this approach practical.
Combining MAW and MED
Lopez's research often tested a combined approach: 4 weeks of MAW on a medium edge (18mm) followed by 4 weeks of MED on smaller edges. This sequence uses the neural adaptations from the weighted phase to prime the fingers for harder edge work in the second phase. It is one of the most effective Eva Lopez hangboard program structures.
Research Findings
Lopez-Rivera has published multiple studies comparing hangboard protocols. Here are the key findings relevant to the Eva Lopez hangboard method.
Study 1: MaxHangs vs IntHangs vs Combined (2016 IRCRA, published 2019)
This study compared three 8-week hangboard training routines in 26 sport climbers averaging 7c+/8a:
MaxHangs group: 4 weeks MAW (added weight on 18mm) + 4 weeks MED (minimum edge, bodyweight)
IntHangs group: 8 weeks of intermittent dead hangs on minimum edge
Combined group: 4 weeks MAW + 4 weeks IntHangs
| Group | Endurance Gain (4 wks) | Endurance Gain (8 wks) |
|---|---|---|
| IntHangs (Repeaters) | 25.2% | 45% |
| MaxHangs | -- | 34.1% |
| Combined | -- | Not significantly better than MaxHangs alone |
All groups improved maximal finger strength. Even a pure strength protocol (MaxHangs) produces meaningful endurance gains. And intermittent hangs (repeaters) are exceptionally effective at building grip endurance. The Eva Lopez hangboard approach works whether you prioritize strength, endurance, or both.
Study 2: Earlier Work (Lopez-Rivera & Gonzalez-Badillo, 2012)
Lopez's earlier research established the validity of dead-hang testing as a measure of climbing-specific finger strength, showing a significant positive correlation (r = 0.51, p < 0.001) between hang test results and climbers' redpoint grades. This is what gives the Eva Lopez hangboard protocol its credibility: the tests measure something that directly relates to climbing performance.
What the Numbers Mean for You
The strength gains documented in Lopez's research (up to 28% in maximal strength over 8 weeks in some earlier work) represent what structured, progressive hangboard training can deliver. These are not casual improvements from unstructured training. They come from following a disciplined hangboard training routine with controlled intensity, proper rest, and consistent progression over a defined cycle.
IntHangs vs SubHangs: Which Works Better?
Lopez distinguishes between two types of endurance-focused dead hangs, and understanding the difference matters for building your Eva Lopez hangboard routine.
IntHangs (Intermittent Dead Hangs)
These are essentially repeaters with Lopez's specific parameters:
| Parameter | IntHangs |
|---|---|
| Sets | 3-5 |
| Reps per set | 4-5 |
| Hang time | 7-10 seconds |
| Rest between reps | 3-30 seconds |
| Rest between sets | 1-2 minutes |
| Edge | Minimum edge depth (MED) or with added weight |
| Goal | Reach failure on the last rep of the last set |
IntHangs mimic the intermittent grip pattern of climbing: grab, hold, release, grab again. Lopez chose her 10-second on, 5-second off parameters based on video analysis of 40-50 climbs between 8b and 9a, studying the timing of the most intense segments.
SubHangs (Submaximal Dead Hangs)
Lopez also developed SubHangs: longer duration hangs (20-45 seconds) at lower intensity, designed to target endurance via hypertrophy and metabolic adaptation. These are 4-8 sets with 30 seconds to 2 minutes rest, and they produce a different training stimulus than either MaxHangs or IntHangs.
When to Use Each
Lopez's Eva Lopez hangboard protocol recommends sequencing these methods:
1. Start with MaxHangs (4-8 weeks) to build a strength foundation.
2. Transition to IntHangs (4-8 weeks) for strength endurance.
3. Use SubHangs for specific endurance phases or route-climbing preparation.
This sequencing mirrors her research design and ensures you build max strength first, then develop the ability to sustain that strength under fatigue.
8-Week Implementation Plan
Here is a practical plan for running the Eva Lopez hangboard protocol. This follows her tested research design: 4 weeks MAW, 4 weeks MED.
Weeks 1-4: MAW Phase (Added Weight on 18-20mm Edge)
| Week | Sets | Hang Time | Margin | Rest | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 3 | 10 sec | 5 sec | 3 min | Find your baseline weight |
| 2 | 3-4 | 10 sec | 4 sec | 3 min | Add 2-5kg if margin feels too easy |
| 3 | 4 | 10 sec | 3 sec | 3-4 min | Building toward peak sets |
| 4 | 4-5 | 10 sec | 2-3 sec | 4 min | Highest intensity of this phase |
Edge: 18-20mm (standard training edge)
Grip: Half crimp
Warm-up: 3-4 progressive hangs at 50-90% of training load, increasing weight or decreasing edge on each set
Weeks 5-8: MED Phase (Minimum Edge at Bodyweight)
| Week | Sets | Hang Time | Margin | Rest | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5 | 3 | 10 sec | 5 sec | 3 min | Find your minimum edge at bodyweight |
| 6 | 3-4 | 10 sec | 4 sec | 3 min | Drop 1-2mm if margin is too wide |
| 7 | 4 | 10 sec | 3 sec | 3-4 min | Approaching smallest edge |
| 8 | 4-5 | 10 sec | 2-3 sec | 4 min | Peak intensity, smallest edge |
Edge: Start at a depth where you can complete all sets with the target margin, then reduce
Grip: Half crimp
Warm-up: 3-5 progressive hangs on larger edges, decreasing depth each set
Deload Week (Week 9)
Reduce both volume and intensity by 40-50%. Two sessions max, 2-3 sets each, with a generous margin (5+ seconds). This lets your tendons and nervous system consolidate the gains from the previous 8 weeks.
Session Timing
Run your Eva Lopez hangboard sessions at the beginning of a training day when you are fresh, or as a standalone session. For guidance on timing your sessions around climbing, see our training after climbing guide. Your fingers need to be capable of near-maximal effort, and fatigue compromises the quality of every rep.
Progressive Overload in the Eva Lopez Hangboard System
The Eva Lopez hangboard protocol uses three levers for progressive overload:
1. Narrowing the Margin
Start each cycle with a 5-second margin and work toward a 1-2 second margin over 4 weeks. This is the primary progression within a phase.
2. Adding Sets
Begin with 3 sets per session and work up to 5 over the cycle. Lopez's research included climbers working up to 8 sets in advanced cycles, but 5 is plenty for most people.
3. Increasing Load
Add weight (MAW) or decrease edge depth (MED) between cycles. If you finished your last cycle doing 10-second hangs with +30kg on 18mm, start the next cycle at +32kg with a wider margin.
What Not to Do
Do not increase hang time beyond 10-15 seconds. The Eva Lopez hangboard approach is about intensity, not duration. Hanging for 20-30 seconds shifts the stimulus away from maximal strength and into endurance territory, which is a different hangboard training routine entirely. Keep it short and heavy.
Who Is This Protocol For?
The Eva Lopez hangboard protocol works across a wide range of climbers.
Boulderers Chasing Hard Grades
If your projects involve small holds and maximum finger force, MaxHangs are directly applicable. The protocol builds the kind of single-move strength that makes or breaks boulder problems.
Route Climbers Building a Strength Foundation
Even if your primary goal is endurance, a block of MaxHangs builds the raw strength that makes everything else easier. A 10% increase in max finger strength means every hold on your project feels a little bit easier to grip. Pair it with hangboard pull-ups for a combined finger and upper-body session.
Anyone Who Wants Structure
The Eva Lopez hangboard system is appealing because it is precise. Exact sets, exact hang times, exact rest periods, exact margins. If you like having a clear hangboard training routine with measurable progress, this delivers.
Climbers Returning to Training
Because MaxHangs involve very low total volume per session (30-50 seconds of actual hanging), they place less cumulative stress on your tendons than higher-volume protocols. If you are easing back in, our beginner hangboard guide has additional tips for building a safe foundation. This makes them a reasonable option for rebuilding strength after time away.
Frequently Asked Questions
Two to three sessions per week with at least 48 hours between sessions. Lopez's research subjects trained 2-3 times per week alongside their normal climbing. Start with two sessions and add a third only if recovery allows.
Yes. Lopez used half crimp as her standard test grip because research shows it is the most commonly used grip on small holds. But you can run the Eva Lopez hangboard protocol with any grip you want to strengthen. Many climbers alternate between half crimp and open hand across sessions or within a cycle.
18-20mm is the standard for the MAW phase. This is a comfortable training edge that allows precise weight adjustments. For the MED phase, start on whatever edge lets you complete all sets with a 5-second margin at bodyweight, then reduce from there.
Any board with edges in the 14-20mm range works. Boards with multiple edge depths are ideal for the MED phase. Lopez designed the Transgression board with adjustable edges for this purpose, but you do not need that specific board. Our best hangboards guide compares the top options. The protocol works on any quality hangboard, and The Hangboard offers edge profiles that support both MAW and MED training.
The margin is based on your perceived time to failure. If you are doing 10-second hangs with a 3-second margin, you should feel like you could hold on for about 13 seconds total. This takes practice to gauge accurately. Lopez acknowledges that it is an estimate, but notes that climbers learn to self-regulate well within a few sessions.
Yes, but do MaxHangs first when your fingers are fresh. Follow with a 15-minute rest before climbing. Keep the climbing session moderate in volume. If you find your hang quality dropping across sessions, separate your hangboard training routine and climbing days entirely.
Start the Protocol
The Eva Lopez hangboard protocol is one of the best-researched fingerboard programs available and a key method in any complete hangboard training approach. Use a hangboard timer app to keep your intervals precise. It is simple, effective, and backed by published science. Pick your loading method, find your baseline, and commit to 8 weeks. The strength gains are real and they transfer directly to the wall.
For a broader look at how MaxHangs fit into a complete training plan, see our hangboard training hub.
Ready to start MaxHangs?
Six edges. 40mm to 10mm. Labeled, progressive, $89.99.
Shop The Hangboard- Lopez-Rivera, E. & Gonzalez-Badillo, J.J. (2019). Comparison of hangboard training programs in sport climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences.
- Lopez-Rivera, E. & Gonzalez-Badillo, J.J. (2012). The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and rest time on grip endurance in elite climbers.
- Gonzalez-Badillo, J.J. & Gorostiaga, E.M. (1993). Methodological foundations of strength training.
- Eva Lopez blog. en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com
Ready to start training?
6 edge depths from 40mm to 10mm. European beech wood. One board that grows with your climbing.