🧠Excalibur Overview
Excalibur is renowned for its intense power-endurance demands, featuring a series of sharp micro-edges and small, awkwardly positioned pockets leading up to a fierce boulder problem that requires an extremely technical heel hook. The route's difficulty and unique characteristics have made it a coveted challenge among elite climbers.
đź“Ť Location
Excalibur is situated on a 40° overhanging limestone wall in Drena, near Arco, Italy. The exact coordinates are 45.96018, 10.93564. The route's name and ambiance are inspired by Arthurian legend, complete with a symbolic sword embedded in an anvil at the base of the climb.
What Makes It So Hard?
Unlike long, pumpy enduro routes like La Dura Dura, Excalibur is short and savage. It’s essentially an 18-move boulder problem on a rope. Climbers face tweaky crimps, slopey edges, and a nail-biting heel hook crux that has shut down even the best.
Adam Ondra, who tried it alongside Ghisolfi in 2022, described it as one of the most brutal lines he'd ever tested. “I’ve never felt so physically destroyed on a route that short,” he said in a YouTube video documenting the session.
Notable Ascents of Excalibur
First Ascent — Stefano Ghisolfi (Italy)
đź—“ February 3, 2023
After nearly two years of projecting, Italian powerhouse Stefano Ghisolfi made the historic first ascent of Excalibur. His efforts were documented in a series of YouTube videos, showing the sheer dedication and technical mastery required to unlock the sequence. The route became not only the hardest in Italy but one of the hardest in the world. Ghisolfi’s proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) was based on his extensive experience with other testpieces like Perfecto Mundo and Change. His ascent cemented Excalibur as the ultimate test of power, precision, and perseverance.
Second Ascent — Will Bosi (United Kingdom)
đź—“ February 3, 2025
Exactly two years to the day after Ghisolfi’s send, Will Bosi—one of Britain’s strongest climbers—claimed the coveted second ascent. Bosi had previously made headlines with hard ascents like Burden of Dreams (9A/V17) and King Capella (9b+). His success on Excalibur confirmed the proposed grade and proved that the line was not only repeatable but also open to new beta possibilities. In interviews, Bosi described the climb as “a true benchmark for what’s possible on short, powerful routes.”
Third Ascent — Brooke Raboutou (United States)
đź—“ April 5, 2025
In a historic moment for both the route and the sport, Brooke Raboutou became the first woman ever to climb 9b+ with her third ascent of Excalibur. Already a rising star with competition victories and hard outdoor sends to her name, Raboutou had spent months working the line. Her success was a major milestone not just personally but for female climbers worldwide. The achievement drew international media attention and solidified her place among the world’s elite.
🧩 Unique Features
Short and Intense: At approximately 12 meters, Excalibur is relatively short but demands exceptional power and precision.
Technical Crux: The route culminates in a challenging boulder problem that requires a precise heel hook and delicate finger strength.
Injury Risk: The small holds and intense moves have led climbers like Adam Ondra to express concerns about potential finger injuries.
🎥 Media Coverage
First Ascent Video: Stefano Ghisolfi's First Ascent of Excalibur
Will Bosi's Repeat: Will Bosi Tops Excalibur 9b+
Brooke Raboutou's Historic Ascent: Brooke Raboutou Just Made Rock Climbing History.
Excalibur Climbing Facts
What grade is Excalibur?
Excalibur is graded 9b+ (5.15c), making it one of the hardest sport climbs in the world.
Where is Excalibur located?
Excalibur is located in Drena, near Arco, Italy.
How many moves is Excalibur?
The route is approximately 12 meters long and involves around 18 moves.
Who bolted Excalibur?
The route was bolted by Cristian Dorigatti & Morris Fontanari in 2020.
Who made the first ascent of Excalibur?
Stefano Ghisolfi made the first ascent on February 3, 2023.
What angle is Excalibur?
The climb is on a steep 40° overhanging limestone wall.